Truffle & Error

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Three Weeks in Pakistan After Seventeen Years (Chapter 1)

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Obviously this was going to end up being a TLDR post if I didn’t break it into chapters. So, here is the first part of my journey to Pakistan this summer. Stay tuned as I work through the rest of the chapters, recalling all that the trip had to offer! 

The last time I was in Pakistan was at the end of 2001. We went as a family during Christmas holidays. I was in grade four – at the age of ten. Sadly, a couple days before we left, my mom’s youngest brother passed away in a tragic bus accident. Needless to say, the trip was not what our parents had intended, and since then, none of us siblings were inclined to travel to Pakistan (mostly because traveling as a family of nine became financially ridiculous, and no one wanted to go “alone”). 

Before Leaving

Because of the circumstances of this trip as well, I had not mentioned it to many of my friends or family. A handful of the people who I interact with on a regular basis knew and a few of my closest friends. In fact, there was so much chaos in my life around the time I left, that I just did not find time talking about the trip until I was there! 

Naturally, everyone was shocked that the last time I was in Pakistan was seventeen years ago, so they felt I needed to be cautious in every possible way. But, prior to leaving, I also subjected myself to doctor visits, pharmacy visits and just over preparing for any situation that may arise on the trip. 

I literally bought everything: bandaids, Gravol, Imodium, three bottles of bug spray, sunscreen, three cameras, five packs of film, three batteries for my DSLR, three batteries for my GoPro, face mist – which got me in trouble at the airport – and the list just goes on. I mean, there wasn’t anything I left behind. You would think I was leaving forever – or preparing for survival. Nah, I was just being extra and trying to document as much as possible.

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After landing

You have to keep in mind that I was fresh off the plane from Canada. Initially, after landing at Allama Iqbal Airport in Lahore, what took me by surprise was the atmosphere. It was hot, sticky and, unpleasantly smelly. I didn’t miss Canada, I just missed a breath of fresh air, especially after being in transit for more than 25 hours. 

We took connecting flights. So, from Detroit to Toronto to Istanbul to Lahore, I got a real good idea of how absolutely unorganized and stressful airports are around the world. This was one of the first of many things which made me realize how much we take for granted living in Canada.

The airport in Turkey was so extremely crowded that I felt claustrophobic… and I’m not even claustrophobic… ever! While at the airport in Lahore, I realized two extremes: women were treated extremely chivalrously or they were treated like the complete opposite of the spectrum. Perhaps this extremism in behaviours exhibited is one of the reasons why women have their own queue at airports, store check-outs, ticket booths at amusement parks, and other public places. Although, I gather it also has a lot do with religion and gender segregation. As well, perhaps just the extreme feelings people have about women in Pakistan in general… and I’m sure I don’t need to go down that mucky road more than I already have. 

Anyway, as a woman from the west, I was not trying to stand out; not one bit! The moment we landed in Istanbul, I switched out of my clothes that I had worn from Canada, into clothes that would allow me to “blend in” with the women in Pakistan. In fact, the entire trip, I only wore shalwar-kameez, usually accompanied by a veil (which came in really handy when I wanted to cover my mouth from the pollution or odd smells and it protected me from the blazing sun!). My friends back home poked at me when I sent them pictures because I looked like a native. I truly felt like I belonged and this way I didn’t get hassled at the shops either.

Shopping in Lahore

Speaking of shops… I have to admit, I really had higher expectations of my shopping experience in Pakistan. Especially because my shopping list consisted mainly of Pakistani clothes, shoes and jewelry. Really…how hard could it be? But, I was mostly irritated throughout my runs through many stores in search of something to wear for a wedding that we had to attend the second day after our arrival! I ended up getting nothing and borrowed clothes from my cousins. 

But, in a later chapter, I will compare shopping in Lahore to shopping elsewhere in the country and it is truly a blessing in comparison!

Also, it helps to know someone who knows the places. I hadn’t told very many people, so I didn’t get much advice from my dear Lahoris – except one. A friend of mine messaged when he found out that I was there and he recommended a lot of places. But by the time he messaged I was all “shopped out.” So I had to wait until I returned to Lahore to check out the places!

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The above picture is Emporium Mall. It is one of the biggest malls in Lahore. You feel like you’re in a different world here. One of my biggest lessons from eating here (and everywhere else in Pakistan) was that when you see a “western” franchise, like Popeyes or Pizza Hut, avoid it at all costs. Yes, it’s nice that you can finally eat halal meat, but the quality is not the same as it is here in North America. I was truly so appreciative of our fast food in North America after trying the fast food in Pakistan. You’re truly better off having something from their local restaurants. The food served at the local chains is faarrr better than the food in any of the fast food restaurant chains. 

Below is Khaadi Lahore, one of the few clothing stores that did not disappoint! I purchased a lot from here for my siblings and as gifts. It’s really a place to check for trendy Pakistani clothing!

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After landing we were only in Lahore for one day before we left to go to Faisalabad for a wedding. So, everything in Lahore had to wait until we returned! More on that in the next chapter! Stay tuned! 

Khuda Hafiz